Derry, Northern Ireland: What to Do, See, and Eat in the Walled City

Derry, Northern Ireland, known as both the Walled City and the Maiden City, is one of the most layered destinations on the island of Ireland. In a single day, you can walk a 400-year-old city wall, stand where Bloody Sunday took place, and try on a school jacket from Derry Girls. This is how we spent our time there.

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We took a train from Dublin to Belfast and another from Belfast to Derry on Halloween morning. A Friday. Derry’s Halloween celebration is known as the largest in Europe. I thought the trains might be packed, but our commute was easygoing. Enjoyable. I overheard a young boy ask the adult with him, “Is a bed just a charger for your body?”

From the train station, we took a cab to our hotel in the Walled City, Maldron Hotel Derry.

We checked our luggage and followed the woman at the front desk’s advice to get lunch from the food trucks. When we made it over to them, we were surprised to find Lo & Slo American BBQ. I had wings on chips (French fries), and Chris had a Burger. Our meals impressed and hit the spot.

If they had a restaurant, I’d add it to my list of places to make a reservation at. Instead, they have a BBQ School and a food truck. It’d certainly be a unique experience to take a BBQ class in Northern Ireland. 

We met the delightful owner, Emily McCorkell. She hails from Philadelphia, but has lived in Derry since 2005.

For more places to eat and drink in Derry, see our post Derry, Northern Ireland: Restaurants Worth Knowing.

Where we stayed in Derry

Maldron Hotel Derry. We booked late for an overnight stay on Halloween. July 7th is the day I made the reservation. Maldron Hotel Derry was one of the few places with anything available within the walls, and they had only one room left, a family room. The room was extra spacious with a lovely city view, a comfortable bed, and a large soaking tub. 

It’s a four-star hotel, quiet, clean, and well-situated for getting around the city. The decor throughout the hotel felt underwhelming. That said, I wouldn’t turn up my nose at another stay, but might try to find something a bit more boutique on our next trip to Derry. Book Maldron Hotel Derry. Or, book one of the hotels I have my eyes on for next time: Shipquay Boutique Hotel or Number 8 The Townhouse.

The Derry Walls and Landmarks

We walked Derry’s 400+ year-old walls with a friend and, with her help, spotted filming locations for Derry Girls. All three of us love the show; its three seasons are available on Netflix. Chris snapped photos of us in front of the famous Derry Girls mural, but we couldn’t find a shot that let us stand out of the shadow. Next time.

We also stopped at The Yellow Yard, a vintage/thrift shop, featured in Derry Girls. While there, we spotted a Minnesota Vikings T-shirt. I bought two pins: “The ADHD” tarot-style pin and Mary with boxing gloves (“Hail Mary full of grace. Punch the devil in the face.”). If you happen to be a Gen Xer, you might feel as if you’ve walked into your college days dream store.    

While the walls are fun to wander, we wish we’d had time for us to take a guided walls tour. 

Discover the City Walls – Small Group Public or Private Tour

Derry Girls TV Show Filming Locations Tour

A Few Derry Landmarks

A few Derry landmarks stood out to us: the Guildhall, Peace Bridge, and Hands Across The Divide sculpture.

The Guildhall is a 19th-century neo-Gothic/Tudor building. Its clock is modeled on Big Ben. You can book a guided tour in advance.

The Peace Bridge is a foot and cycle bridge that crosses over the River Foyle, connecting Ebrington Square to Derry’s city center. We took a lovely morning stroll across it. It’s a great spot for taking photos of Derry. 

The Hands Across The Divide Sculpture in Carlisle Square (a roundabout). Symbolic of the Northern Ireland conflict between Republicans and Loyalists, two men reach out to each other, but their hands do not touch.

The Bogside Troubles Walking Tour

The Bogside is the Catholic nationalist neighborhood that sits just beyond Derry’s old walls. It was here, on January 30th, 1972, that British paratroopers opened fire on unarmed civil rights marchers. Twenty-six were shot. Thirteen died that day, and a fourteenth died later from his wounds. Bloody Sunday. The Bogside Massacre.

Our guide, John McKinney, a man whose brother, William McKinney, was killed by the British Army on Bloody Sunday, took us by the Bogside Murals, collectively called “The People’s Gallery.” Organized by the Northern Ireland Civil Rights Association, those marching were protesting the British government’s policy of internment without trial. Most arrested and imprisoned without trial were Catholic and suspected of being part of the IRA. Oftentimes, the intelligence they were going on was inaccurate. In the Twin Cities, this past winter, we saw current events rhyme with this history. 

We saw where Bloody Sunday took place. Bullet holes are still visible.

At one point, our guide asked if any Americans were in the group. Chris and I raised our hands. I believe we were the only ones. “You know about gerrymandering then.” Indeed, we do. He explained how in Derry, gerrymandering prevented the Catholic majority from gaining representation. He compared gerrymandering to a pressure cooker. In the Civil Rights Mural, a sign held up by a protester reads “One Man. One Vote.” That’s because in local elections, in addition to gerrymandering, business owners and university degree holders had more than one vote, and you couldn’t vote at all if you weren’t a homeowner.  

We felt like we gained a book’s worth of knowledge, maybe more, in that hour. This tour is exceptional. Reserve your spot. Only 15 spots are available per tour. 

After the tour on that brisk November day, we needed to warm up. Chris wanted coffee. I wanted tea. We looked for a café and found Evie. We sat, warmed up, and talked through what we’d seen before heading to the Tower Museum. It served as a nice transition to the lighter part of our day. 

The Derry Girls Experience at the Tower Museum

We went to the museum for The Derry Girls Experience. 

That said, the rest of the museum is worth exploring. The Tower Museum tells the story of Derry from its origins forward, and does it well. The Madonna of Lettershenoney, a small wooden statue pulled from a bog in 1978, believed to date from the late 17th or early 18th century, captured my interest. She likely ended up in a bog because of the Penal Laws. 

There’s a photograph of a young Liam Neeson performing in Brian Friel’s Translations at the Guildhall in 1980. And Liam Neeson also happened to appear in the popular TV series I adore: Derry Girls. 

The Derry Girls Experience recreates several sets from the show. Erin’s bedroom with its posters, girly teenage clutter, and a chalkboard listing the differences between the Irish and the British.

Among the items on the Irish side: “Catholics heart Bingo!” “Catholics have more freckles.” “Catholics like to walk…” It brought back memories of going to BINGO games in church basements in the ‘80s, my cousins with freckles (somehow I don’t have many), and my devout Great Aunt Mary, who walked everywhere. “A couple of good pairs of shoes a year cost a lot less than car insurance.” 

The Quinns’ kitchen has the avocado-green pantry and cupboard doors. Grandpa Joe’s surfboard balanced above the cupboard, as if perfectly normal. The living room with its heavy TV. The VHS tapes. A polling station. Script pages. A bulletin board debating Yes or No to ending the conflict, with a Post-it on the Yes side: What would Clinton do?

Then there’s Erin’s Diary, topped with stickers, The Cranberries written on, and in the middle of it all, “Writing is a calling — not a choice.” Derry Through Erin’s Diary: Derry Girls Book Review.

There are even school jackets you can try on. I did. Chris did not.

It’s uncertain how long The Derry Girls Experience will be at the Tower Museum. Given the show’s popularity, hopefully for a long time. You may want to check the Tower Museum’s site before a visit: towermuseumcollections.com.

Derry delivers on its promises. Halloween, history, and like it is portrayed in Derry Girls, the funny and devastating are neighbors. Give it more than a day if you can. 

This is part of our 5 Days in Northern Ireland itinerary.

If you’re building an Ireland itinerary, our 14-day Ireland itinerary includes this stop in Derry if you’re still mapping out your trip.

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