Larry McMurtry’s Temple of Books: Visiting the Larry McMurtry Literary Center in Archer City, Texas

We went to Archer City to see Larry McMurtry’s temple of books. Located in a former car dealership that McMurtry purchased and converted into his bookstore, Booked Up, it smells like an old theater’s backstage and well-worn book pages. For a time, Booked Up was one of four downtown Archer City retail spaces dedicated to his book collection. While the sign above the front awning still reads ‘Booked Up Inc.,’ a new sign hangs, telling visitors what it is today: Larry McMurtry Literary Center & Bookstore. 

More than 300,000 books call the Larry McMurtry Literary Center home. Not all are for sale. Some will live there for quite some time, allowing admirers of McMurtry and books in general to commune and engage their senses with them. During my two visits, I felt a kinship with the people visiting the store and the books that live there.

The Man Behind The Myth of The West

In a CBS Texas interview, McMurtry’s friend, Executive Director of LMLC, and Pulitzer Prize finalist, George Getschow, called Larry “the greatest writer of the American West that ever was and ever will be.” McMurtry himself won a Pulitzer Prize for his demystifying, deromanticizing Western epic, Lonesome Dove. 

I met Getschow on the first evening of the 2025 Fall Archer City Writers Workshop. He and I fell into conversation about how McMurtry was one of the best at writing female characters. Few men are as capable of writing women as fully and fearlessly. William Shakespeare. Henrik Ibsen. Larry McMurtry. 

The next day, at the bookstore, Getschow brought up Taylor Sheridan. Best known as one of the creators of Yellowstone, Sheridan wrote the foreword to the 40th anniversary edition of Lonesome Dove. In it, Sheridan called reading and later watching Lonesome Dove “easily the most formative event in my life.” Sheridan has lost count of the times he’s read McMurtry’s epic, but guesses it’s somewhere over forty. If you love Yellowstone, start here. 

I bought my own 40th-anniversary edition of Lonesome Dove that afternoon, along with Walter Benjamin at the Dairy Queen, Books: A Memoir, and A Family of Good Women. The last is a book by novelist Teddy Jones, whose book launch at the Center was its first.

Meeting My First McMurtry Heroine

Standing amongst the stacks, I thought of the first McMurtry heroine I ever met, Patsy Carpenter. “Sometimes she ate casually and read avidly — other times she read casually and ate avidly.” 

I met Larry McMurtry’s words on paper when I picked up a paperback copy of Moving On from the Barnes and Noble in Rochester, Minnesota’s old Chateau Theater. The theater remains, the Barnes & Noble does not. It was almost thirty years ago. Patsy, the book’s heroine, may be my all-time favorite character. I read like her, felt her emotional range to be similar to mine, but by social status, I had much more in common with Boots, the rodeo clown’s fiancée.  

At LMLC, Getschow asked Teddy Jones to read aloud from Moving On’s first page. He handed me his copy of The Redneck Review Number 1, Spring 1968, which he’d donated to the center, turned to the first page of the story McMurtry had contributed. I read along as Jones read aloud – the words almost identical.

The experience gave me chills and brought tears to my eyes. Connections like this are what I love about stories and travel.

Inside McMurtry’s Temple of Books

When I visited the Larry McMurtry Literary Center with Getschow, Jones, and some other members of the workshop, we had the opportunity to see both the LMLC as it is and some of what it’s destined to become. I was able to climb up to a restricted spot that they plan to renovate into a space where visitors can look out over the books in the store. It’ll be ideal for getting those shots for the ‘gram, but I don’t believe many are given access to it at this time. Don’t worry, there’s plenty to see and no shortage of books to buy, including shelves of books signed by authors near the front door.

A wooden post with Lonesome Dove quotes, characters, and locations stands near the entrance. “If you left me a choice, I didn’t notice it.” An autographed photograph of Robert Duvall as Gus McCrae hangs beneath a photo of him and his Lonesome Dove costar, Tommy Lee Jones.

Not far from the register is a priceless photograph from the New Orleans Red Light District circa 1912. 

LMLC’s showroom is a place to let your eyes wander and notice. When I did, I noticed a vintage plank signed by famous writers and artists, including Carl Sandburg and Tom Wolfe. According to a paper taped near it, it served as a guest book for Thomas Hornsby, Poet Laureate of Colorado. There’s also a room of rare and unusual books that you can ask to see. 

Behind the scenes, in the more restricted area, a sheet of paper titled “Some Often Asked Questions and Their Answers” is posted. It’s from the time when the Larry McMurtry Literary Center was Booked Up. Here are a few of my favorites from the Q&A:

Q: When will Mr. McMurtry be here?
A: At his whim.

Q: How are the books arranged?
A: Erratically/ Impressionistically/ Whimsically/ Open to Interpretation

Q: What’s the pig mean?
A: Mr. McMurtry’s partner likes pigs.

I also spotted seats thought to have been pulled from Archer City’s Royal Theater, one of many settings used in the film adaptation of The Last Picture Show.

These are just glimpses of the treasures in Larry McMurtry’s temple of books. A weekend isn’t enough to take in all that there is to see, and I only had a couple of hours. My suspicion is that when I return, I’ll notice different books, prints, and objects to admire. It’s that way with bookstores. At least, that’s the way it is for me.

If you’d like to spend an unrushed weekend paging through and purchasing books at the Larry McMurtry Literary Center, you might want to stay at Spur Hotel, a 3-minute walk down Center Street. Read more about it in our review, Spur Hotel, Archer City: A Texas Stay for Booklovers.

The Larry McMurtry Literary Center is open most weekends. For their most up-to-date hours and happenings, be sure to visit their site, Larry McMurtry Literary Center. 

Looking for more bookish adventures?

If you’re planning a literary-themed Texas road trip, add Hotel 1928 in Waco to your itinerary. And, add Roads by Larry McMurtry: A Literary Road Trip Review to your reading list.

Love exploring indie bookshops and small-town charm? Plan a cozy weekend in Duluth filled with coffee, books, and lake views next.

Dreaming of bookish travel in New York City? Follow in the footsteps of Nora Ephron through classic film locations and romantic city moments.

Escape abroad with A Booklover’s Guide to a Weekend in Porto, Portugal — where cobblestone streets and riverside cafés invite you to read, wander, and sip port wine.

Discover Minneapolis’ Mill District: A Bookish, Artsy City Escape, a Midwest getaway where independent bookstores and literary history meet creative inspiration.

FAQ: Visiting the Larry McMurtry Literary Center in Archer City, Texas

What is the Larry McMurtry Literary Center?

The Larry McMurtry Literary Center, formerly known as Booked Up, is the late Pulitzer Prize–winning author’s legendary bookstore in Archer City, Texas. Housed in a converted car dealership, it contains more than 300,000 books and serves as both a working bookstore and a tribute to McMurtry’s life, writing, and love of literature.

Where is the Larry McMurtry Center located?

The center is located in downtown Archer City, Texas, about 25 miles south of Wichita Falls and about a two-hour drive from Dallas–Fort Worth.

Is the bookstore still open to the public?

Yes. The Larry McMurtry Literary Center is typically open on weekends, though hours can vary. Before visiting, check their official website or social media for the most up-to-date information.

Can you buy books at the Larry McMurtry Literary Center?

Absolutely. While some volumes are part of McMurtry’s permanent collection, thousands of titles are available for purchase — from rare and out-of-print books to signed editions and classic Western literature. Purchases are limited to 10 books.

What makes the bookstore special for fans of Lonesome Dove?

Inside the bookstore, you’ll find references to Lonesome Dove throughout — from quotes carved into wooden posts to photographs of Robert Duvall and Tommy Lee Jones as Gus McCrae and Woodrow Call. It’s a pilgrimage site for readers who love the novel and the American West.

Are there other things to do in Archer City?

Yes. In addition to the Literary Center, visitors can explore the historic Royal Theater (featured in The Last Picture Show), enjoy small-town Texas charm, and stay nearby at The Spur Hotel.

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