What I’d Tell a Friend Visiting Lisbon for the First Time

Chris and I lived in Portugal for over a year and a half. First in the Algarve, then in Porto. We lost count of how many long weekends we spent in lovely Lisbon. It’s endlessly walkable, full of restaurants and cafés we long to return to, places that inspired our curiosity, and more we want to book our next flight to see. There never seems to be enough time to experience everything one wants to in cities like Lisbon.

That said, if I were sending a friend to Lisbon for the first time, the first thing I’d tell them is to make their dinner reservations before leaving home. We booked a Sunday dinner at By the Wine in mid-April, just a few days in advance. The earliest available table was at 10 p.m. Worth it despite being past my bedtime. If I’d done better prior planning, we might’ve had dinner at six or seven.  

Lisbon’s best restaurants fill up fast, and your chances of charming your way to a table are slim.

The second thing I’d tell them is to wear comfortable shoes. Lisbon is a city of hills. Don’t be too proud to request an Uber to get you over one of them. They’re reasonably priced.

This post contains affiliate links. If you book a hotel or activity through one of our links, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Where to Stay

We’ve stayed at two hotels in Lisbon that I’d recommend.

My Story Hotel Rossio is well-located and comfortable. We enjoyed its boutique feel, the spaciousness of our room, and the hotel’s connection to the Great Lisbon Earthquake. It was constructed as part of the city’s post-earthquake reconstruction and features some of the world’s earliest earthquake-resistant architecture. The Emerald House Lisbon, Curio Collection by Hilton was the one we kept rebooking. See why in our review, The Emerald House Lisbon: A Hotel We Keep Coming Back To.

Eating and Drinking

Nicola

Praça D. Pedro IV 24/25, Lisbon

Nicola is an 18th-century café that was frequented by artists, writers, and politicians. They serve authentic Portuguese dishes, and the setting alone may be worth stopping in for. It’s one of the spots on our next time list.

Time Out Market (Mercado da Ribeira)

Av. 24 de Julho, 1200-479 Lisboa

We’ve been to this food hall several times, and every meal was great. It’s always busy with locals and tourists alike. They have plenty of seating and upscale fast-casual options. There, you can find American Doughnuts, Woodfired Pizza, Asian Street Food, Portuguese Meals and Sweets, and more. If you and your travel companion(s) are struggling to agree on what to eat, Time Out Market is a great solution. One thing to know: they do not take cash.

By the Wine

Rua das Flores 41–43, 1200-193 Lisboa

As I mentioned, make reservations well in advance, or you might not get a table. We loved the atmosphere, the service, the food, and the ability to try almost any wine from their extensive list by the glass instead of committing to a bottle, and the 3,267 bottles of wine lining their ceiling.

Sala de Corte

Praça Dom Luís I 7, 1200-148 Lisboa

Our favorite restaurant in Lisbon. The steaks are done to perfection. I order mine medium, Chris orders medium-well, and they’ve nailed both every time. Save room for the cheese tart, Tarta de Queso. Our server described it as being like New York-style cheesecake, but better. He was right. It was lighter, fluffier, and absolutely worth it. I believe it is most similar to a Basque cheesecake. 

A Ginjinha

Largo São Domingos 8, 1100-201 Lisboa

This tiny bar has been serving traditional ginjinha, Lisbon’s cherry liqueur, since 1840. It’s the kind of place where you stand, take your shot, and move on. A true Lisbon experience.

Lisbon’s Famous Custard Tarts

You can’t visit Lisbon without trying pastel de nata, and you’ll have plenty of options. Here are the three we most recommend:

Pastéis de Belém (R. de Belém 84–92, 1300-085 Lisboa) is the original. If the history of pasteis matters to you, this is a pilgrimage. It’s also close to Jerónimos Monastery, which is worth the trip on its own.

Fabrica da Nata (R. Augusta nº 275 A, 1100-052 Lisboa) is our top pick. Warm, fresh from the oven, with the perfect balance of crust and custard. It’s also fun to watch the trays of pastries traveling across the restaurant overhead.

Manteigaria (Av. 24 de Julho 50, 1200-109 Lisboa) is excellent for a consistently great pastel de nata. The location I’ve listed is inside Time Out Market, so you can combine trips.

For more, here’s our full guide to the best pastel de nata in Lisbon. 

Coffee with a Story

Café A Brasileira

Garrett 122, 1200-205 Lisboa

This is one of the first coffee shops in Portugal, built during La Belle Époque and frequented by the poet Fernando Pessoa and various intellectuals. This is where the “bica” originated: Lisbon’s signature espresso shot, sweetened with sugar. They also serve food and cocktails.

Things to See and Do

Arco da Rua Augusta (Augusta Street Arch)

Rua Augusta 2, 1100-053 Lisboa

This arch was built after the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755, and it’s one of the best viewpoints in the city. When we went, it felt like no one else knew they could go up. You get beautiful views from a large, open space, unlike so many of the cramped church towers across Europe. Tickets are €4.50.

The Earthquake Churches: Igreja de São Roque and Convento do Carmo

These two are within a few blocks of each other, and I’d recommend walking from one to the other because together they give a startling story of chance. During the Great Lisbon Earthquake of 1755, a natural disaster that influenced the Age of Enlightenment, one lost its roof and so much more; the other was barely scratched. 

Igreja de São Roque (Largo Trindade Coelho, 1200-470 Lisboa) is a 16th-century Jesuit church and one of the few buildings that survived the earthquake. It’s home to the Chapel of St. John the Baptist, considered the world’s most expensive chapel. Entry to the church is free; the museum has a small fee.

Convento do Carmo (Largo do Carmo, 1200-092 Lisboa) did not survive. The roof caved in, and they decided to leave the ruins standing as a reminder. The earthquake happened on All Saints’ Day, when the church would have been full. Walking through the open-air ruins is hauntingly beautiful. 

Right next to Convento do Carmo, there’s a rooftop bar and restaurant called Carmo Rooftop that overlooks its ruins. Worth a stop for cocktails and contemplation. 

Elevador de Santa Justa

Rua de Santa Justa, 1150-060 Lisboa

This 19th-century iron elevator connects the Baixa (the lower neighborhood) to Largo do Carmo up above. It costs about €6 and there is often a considerable line. The views from the top are worth seeing, but here’s a tip: if you start at Convento do Carmo (which is at the top), you can access the viewing platform at Elevador de Santa Justa without paying for the elevator or hiking uphill. I remember doing it this way, but I can’t remember the exact route. Look for the path near the Carmo ruins that leads to the walkway.

As I write this, Elevador de Santa Justa is temporarily closed. I’m not sure when it will reopen.

Lisbon’s streets, especially in the Baixa (lower) neighborhood, are wide for the city’s age and laid out in a more orderly grid. After the earthquake that leveled Lisbon, the Marquês de Pombal rebuilt it with broader streets and a more deliberate layout. 

A Few More Viewpoints

Lisbon is a city of miradouros (hilltop lookout points), and these two are worth seeking out if you have some extra time:

Miradouro de Santa Catarina (1200-012 Lisboa)

Miradouro da Senhora do Monte (Largo Monte, 1170-107 Lisboa)

If your legs need a break from the hills, consider seeing Lisbon by tuk-tuk. We did, and it’s a fun way to cover ground while someone else does the climbing. Here’s our full post on our Lisbon tuk-tuk experience.

Jerónimos Monastery

I’ve only ever seen Jerónimos Monastery from the outside, and even that was remarkable. It’s such a breathtaking piece of Portuguese architecture that I have to mention it twice in this post, once up near Pastéis de Belém (because they’re close to each other), and again here because it deserves its own moment. 

Belém Tower

Av. Brasília, 1400-038 Lisboa

If you’re already at Jerónimos Monastery, Belém Tower is about a 16-minute walk away. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, an iconic 16th-century waterfront fortress from the Age of Discovery, when Portuguese explorers set off from this spot. This is another site on our next time list. 

Check before you go. Belém Tower has been closed for restoration and may or may not have reopened by the time you visit.

Livraria Bertrand Bookstore

Rua Garrett 73–75, 1200-203 Lisboa

Bertrand is the world’s oldest operating bookstore, open since 1732. There are Bertrand locations throughout Portugal. It’s essentially their Barnes & Noble, but the one at this address is the original. The bookstore itself doesn’t feel extraordinary, and it doesn’t get the overwhelming crowds that Livraria Lello does in Porto. I include it here because of its significance. If you’re a book lover, you’ll want to say you’ve been. You can get whatever book you purchase here stamped to show that you purchased it at the world’s oldest bookstore. 

The Halcyon Boat Experience

Gate 3, Alcântara Harbor (Doca do Espanhol), R. da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa, 1350-352 Lisboa

This is a small-group experience aboard a historic-feeling yacht, and it was one of the highlights of our time in Lisbon. They offer two-hour historical sunset tours, as well as half-day and full-day options. We went on their New Year’s Eve fireworks tour and loved it. Luis and the crew were kind and knowledgeable.

Day Trip to Sintra

If you have a full day to spare, take a day trip to Sintra. We’ve gone. I’ve sent every one of my Portugal travel clients there, and they’ve all come back glad they went. It’s a long day, and your knees will know it, but it’s worth it.

A Word About Tram 28

You’ve probably heard of Tram 28, the iconic yellow and white tram that weaves through Lisbon’s narrow streets and scenic hills. I’ve heard it’s always packed, and I’ve never gone on it myself. It’s also the only place I can say I know someone who is friends with someone who was pickpocketed. Take that for what it’s worth. Instead, I’ve taken pictures of it that I love. 

More to do in Lisbon

I book most of our activities through Viator when we travel in Europe.

Looking for more travel inspiration? Follow us on YouTube, Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest.