While at least one other bar (Brazen Head in Dublin) claims the title, all available evidence to date supports Sean’s Bar in Athlone as Ireland’s oldest bar. First opened in 900 A.D., the bar looks quite good for its age. The wooden doors within appear a bit worn, but its deep cobalt-blue exterior, cheerful red open door, and contrasting white columns and trim look like a fresh coat.
To Stop at Sean’s Bar or Not?
On the day we stopped, we’d driven from Magherafelt in Heaney Country to Belfast to drop off our car rental. We’d taken a bus from Belfast’s Grand Central Station to Dublin airport to pick up our next car rental. Once in our new rental, we hit the road for Ennis in County Clare.
I had Sean’s Bar in Athlone on our itinerary for the day. It only added ten to fifteen minutes to our drive. Missing it would be a shame.
Chris, the one who did all of the driving on our trip, made it clear that he didn’t care if we stopped at Sean’s Bar. He’d be fine if we missed it. Chris likes to arrive in new-to-us cities and towns while there’s still daylight.
He left it up to me, so we went.
We’d just have one and be on our way.
Inside Sean’s Bar
When you first walk in, it might appear small. Keep walking back if it feels crowded because there’s a huge covered outdoor space.
At the bar, I ordered an Irish Coffee. I’d noticed online while planning our trip that they give an Irish Coffee Masterclass, so I thought it should be good. It was. Chris ordered a Smithwick’s.
We took a seat at a table in a space that felt tucked away from the bar. Framed photos and license plates on the wall. The candle on our table was out.
A slight woman with soft grey curls and the energy of a fiery fairy angel came over to our table. Kindness brimmed over the edges of her eyes. She confessed that she’d taken the good candle from our table and brought one from another table to ours.
“It makes it more romantic,” she said. “Have you ever been to Ireland before?”
“Yes,” I said.
“We’re good to you here in Ireland, aren’t we?”
“Yes, we love it here.”
She wished me many blessings. Maybe us, but she was looking right into my eyes and holding my hand so tight that I thought one of her nails might break my skin, but out of politeness and not wanting to disrupt the lovely moment, I didn’t flinch.
“You landed on your feet to have a woman as good as her,” she said. Her eyes were fixed on Chris. “But I can see by your eyes in the way you look at her that I don’t need to tell you that.”
Then she let us know that if we needed a place to stay, she lived in the perfect one between the An Post (Post Office) and Sean’s Bar. “And wasn’t that just the best spot to live between the two?” If we ever needed anything, she’d welcome us to it.
“Have you always lived in Athlone?” I asked.
She was born three miles beyond Athlone, but had always been in the area. We spoke for another moment about the loveliness of the area. Then, she returned to the table she shared with another woman and to their conversation.
Is Sean’s Bar Worth the Stop?
We spent less than an hour there, but I’m so glad we stopped. Not so much for the history but for the magic of that moment.
This is one of many destinations in our Ireland travel guide, which includes itineraries, planning advice, and our favorite places to eat, drink, and stay across the country.
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