When we first drove into Archer City, Texas, we missed the welcome sign celebrating its famous former resident, Larry McMurtry, author of more than 30 novels, including Lonesome Dove, his Pulitzer Prize-winning Western Epic. He wrote several successful screenplays, including an adaptation he co-wrote with Diana Ossana, Brokeback Mountain — it earned them Oscars.
The sign is there. “Welcome to Archer City. Home of Larry McMurtry.” Chris snapped a photo of it while I attended the Archer City Writers Workshop.
We went to Archer City to visit its newly opened Larry McMurtry Literary Center (LMLC) and to walk along streets that served as the setting for both his novel and the Oscar-nominated film adapted from it, The Last Picture Show.
Before booking flights to Texas, I learned that the Archer City Writers Workshop was scheduled for about the same time that I hoped to visit Archer City. Attend a writing workshop in the hometown of one of the writers I most admire? Yes, please.
The Archer City Writer’s Workshop
The Archer City Writers Workshop and Larry McMurtry Literary Center was the heart of our Archer City trip.
The price for the multi-day workshop, which includes accommodations, group meals, and guided writing sessions, was better than right, especially given the caliber of instructors, fellow writers, and the intimate size. When I attended in September 2025, the fee was $795, with fewer than 20 writers accepted.
We paid a little extra so Chris could stay with me and join everyone for dinner each evening.
The program was directed by Glenn Stout, author of Young Woman and the Sea: How Trudy Ederle Conquered the English Channel and Changed the World. Over his 35-plus-year career, Glenn has written or edited dozens of acclaimed works. He co-led the workshop with Kathleen Hudson, Ph.D., a retired English professor and celebrated poet known for her books on Texas music.
Other notables running the show included an old friend of Larry McMurtry’s, George Getschow, LMLC Executive Director, English professor, Pulitzer Prize-nominated journalist, and Kathy Floyd, writer and LMLC Managing Director. They were both a delight to meet.
Each writer in the workshop submitted pieces for everyone to read ahead of arriving in Archer City. I read almost all of them on a Saturday and the final few on a Monday. The submissions blew me away. I was excited to meet everyone a couple of weeks before we were scheduled to arrive. We formed a quick community, and I expect to see everyone again within a year or so. Or, I at least hope to.
Visiting the Larry McMurtry Literary Center
A behind-the-scenes sneak peek at a work in progress.The Larry McMurtry Literary Center (LMLC) in Archer City, Texas, is a book lover’s dream. Larry McMurtry loved books. He read voraciously, authored more than thirty books, including Lonesome Dove and The Last Picture Show, and collected hundreds of thousands more over his lifetime. Many of his rare and personal volumes once filled his legendary bookstore, Booked Up, right here in Archer City.
Today, roughly 300,000 books from his collection, including rare and personal volumes, are housed at LMLC, alongside rare art prints, photographs, and literary memorabilia. Another 10,000 volumes have found a home at Hotel 1928 in Waco, Texas.
Visiting the Larry McMurtry Literary Center feels like a pilgrimage. It’s equal parts museum, reading room, and time capsule. The smell of old books mixes with the Texas heat outside, creating a space where stories live.
Where to Eat in Archer City
A fried chicken sandwich at Murn’s Cafe.Murn’s Cafe
We went for lunch on our first full day in Archer City and liked it so much that we decided to try it for breakfast the next day. Then, we liked it so much we hoped to have breakfast and lunch there the following day. We managed to have breakfast there again, but heard from fellow writers who tried and failed to find a spot at lunch that there was a long wait for a table. We would have gone again for breakfast, but they are closed on Sundays.
At diners, I feel shy about asking for something on the side or to leave out a particular ingredient. I ordered my lunch first; Chris doesn’t have similar reservations. On that first day, I ordered a chicken sandwich with fries. Chris ordered a chicken-fried steak without mayo. It was no problem. I then asked if I could do the same: no mayo. Not a problem at all. Our lunch was great, but the next day, at breakfast, Chris ordered a breakfast burrito.
Chris loves breakfast burritos, but is often disappointed. In his estimation, Murn’s Cafe serves one of the best breakfast burritos he has ever had. I really enjoyed my French toast one day and my vegetarian omelet the next, served with a biscuit and hash browns.
Dairy Queen
On our second day, we stopped at the Archer City Dairy Queen, a place Larry McMurtry famously frequented. It’s where he once read a Walter Benjamin essay, back when it was the only air-conditioned restaurant in town.
We don’t usually dine at Dairy Queen, but this one felt like part of the literary pilgrimage. The staff were kind, the service was quick, and the ice cream weather in late September made it impossible to resist dessert.
Over two visits, I tried a Caramel Toffee Cookie Blizzard and a Maple Cookie Shake. The latter won my heart. Chris stuck with a classic sundae.
Where to Stay: The Historic Spur Hotel
Save your money for books at the Larry McMurtry Literary Center and stay at the Spur Hotel, an affordable and quiet 12-room boutique hotel that’s “down the road from ordinary.”
This 3-star historic hotel offers old-fashioned keys, charming décor, and a lobby lined with books. Guests can use a shared kitchen to reheat leftovers or chill drinks — just be sure to follow the posted rules (it has that wholesome “church kitchen” feel).
There’s no daily housekeeping here — which somehow suits the quiet, reflective mood of Archer City. It’s the kind of place where you can write all morning, nap all afternoon, and walk down Center Street to Murn’s Café or the Larry McMurtry Literary Center in minutes.
Read our full review: Spur Hotel, Archer City — A Texas Stay for Book Lovers.
A Few Spots We Didn’t Explore
We didn’t manage to visit Lucky’s Restaurant, the Archer City nature trail, or the local golf course, but they’re all on our list for next time. Archer City may be small, but for readers, writers, and fans of Larry McMurtry, there’s plenty of reason to go back.
Plan Your Visit to Archer City
Getting There: Archer City sits about 25 miles south of Wichita Falls and roughly two hours northwest of Dallas/Fort Worth. The easiest way to reach it is to fly into DFW Airport or Dallas Love Field, rent a car, and take the scenic drive through North Texas ranch country.
Where to Stay: The Historic Spur Hotel is the top pick for literary travelers. This quiet 12-room boutique hotel feels like a step back in time — think real keys, book-lined shelves, and cozy small-town charm.
Where to Eat: Don’t miss Murn’s Café for hearty breakfasts, homemade biscuits, and the best breakfast burrito Chris has ever had. For dessert or a dose of nostalgia, stop at Dairy Queen, McMurtry’s old haunt and the only air-conditioned restaurant in town during his youth.
What to Do:
- Browse the shelves of the Larry McMurtry Literary Center, home to hundreds of thousands of McMurtry’s books and personal treasures.
- Stroll downtown streets that appeared in The Last Picture Show.
- Attend the Archer City Writer’s Workshop, held each fall.
- Explore the nearby nature trail or golf course for a change of pace.
Best Time to Visit:
Late September through early November offers comfortable weather and coincides with literary events, including the annual writer’s workshop.
Insider Tip:
If you plan to attend the Archer City Writer’s Workshop, register early. Space is limited to fewer than 20 participants, and spots fill quickly.
For more travel inspiration, connect with us on YouTube, Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest for more travel and food inspiration.